How to Choose Rattan and Build a Sword, Not a Fishbat

OK, you need to inspect the rattan you're going to build your stick from. I start with sticks about 1 3/8" thick. Look at the line, inspect for worm holes (they're black), look for the curves and warps. You want a straight stick, one that tapers where the hilt will be to the tip. Check the end of the stick. It should show few pores and a thick husk. Use a hacksaw or other fine-toothed saw to reduce husk splintering. If the curves are pronounced , they can be straightened. Sometimes, gentle, continual pressure will do the trick. I use my outside back stairs. I place the outside of curve down, and then tie barbell weights to provide the pressure. I check every 4our hours or so. If that doesn't work after say 2 days, then go ahead and cut the length, and soak it in water for 2 hours or so. Now there will be enough moisture for the fibers to slide, and not break off, weakening the rattan. Over-soaking can also weaken the rattan. When working with sword lengths, I use the pipe grabbing section of my vise, padding the rattan with a pair of old jeans. I use the weights as before, checking every 1/2 hour. Once straight and true, I grip each end, rotating, and swapping ends, finding the best 'feel'. I use a sharpie to mark the hilt and front and back. back into the vise, and using a Sure-Form rasp and palm plane, shave the sides of the rattan down to 1 1/4". I then do the same to the back edge, tapering from the hilt to the tip, not the pommel. Now bevel the edges nice and round with the plane. Now for the taping. I use 3/4" strapping tape (fiberglass reinforced) in a spiral pattern, starting from the hilt, overlapping 1/2 the width. Take your time, and keep the tape as smooth as possible. Wrinkles weaken the tape and look sloppy. Then place a second layer end to end, again overlapping 1/2 the width. Third layer is also spiral, but counter or crosswise to the first layer. Now, you need a rat tail rasp. Grip the hilt, and outline the thumb and mark a line designating the knuckle pads. You will be roughly shaping the grip to your palm. Gripping a roll of clay or wax will give you an approximate of the shape your looking for. Try not carve sharp bends, feather them in. Now, I use extra-large gloves, and other guys have noted how thick my grip is, but it works for me. Some people use 'trigger lanyards' and they work with this grip. Those that carve deep 'knuckle grooves' don't seem to work quite as well with this grip, but then everyone I know who use one is a guy. Now you can hilt and weight or add your basket hilt. You when finished, should have a stick, somewhat blade-shaped, balancing at your forte. My sticks are 36" long, (I'm 5'11")and weight at about 2 3/4 lbs. My current tourney stick is 6 years old and my practice stick is 9. I have NEVER had a stick, built this way, break in combat. I have had sticks go mush eventually, though. Now, this is how I learned to built a sword some 19 years ago. The current vogue in the West is for what I refer to as 'willow wands'; 1 1/2 lbs. absolute minimum diameter, single-layer of tape sticks that last for as little as 6 weeks. And yes, both type fit within period weights for swords. And the really light sticks are faster. The advantage of a heavier stick, it that when it hits, the impact is longer, making a much more noticeable hit, even though plate. You can also through the 'fire and forget' type of shots. The Hammer and punch-type shots also are quite effective. It also forces the wielder to learn and use perfect form, as not doing so makes join injury more likely. When I practice form, I have a 4 1/2 lb. pell stick to enforce my use of proper form. However, I have had knights (Duke Uther the latest) to tell me that their squires MAY NOT BORROW my swords again when they break their willow wands. It seems that the skilled light-swordster when wielding one of my, er, trucks, tend to smack their friend REALLY HARD as they haven't learned to let the sword do the work, and are powering their shots all the way though, instead of 'coasting' them for the last 1/3rd or so. So, that I how I build my swords, and some tips on driving them. Now, heretics, go forth and wand away!!

Sir Theodrik of Skane,
West, Mists, Blackwood COmpany
Lude Fortier, Lude Juste, Nemimi Damnum!
http://www.dubhlinn.com/blackwood

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